The Relationship Between Thread and Embroidery
The right choice of embroidery thread not only ensures delicate and realistic embroidery but also effectively reduces production costs, avoiding unnecessary expenses.
Therefore, understanding the relationship between thread and embroidery is essential. In short, embroidery threads can be broadly categorized into four types: cotton, silk, polyester, and rayon.
Cotton Thread
Cotton thread offers stable strength and heat resistance but lacks abrasion resistance and has a relatively dull sheen. It is commonly used in embroidery.
Cotton thread is divided into fine cotton embroidery thread and thick cotton embroidery thread.
(1) Pure cotton fine embroidery thread
Fine cotton embroidery thread is made by twisting single yarns into plied strands. It comes in a wide range of colors. When embroidering on coarse fabric, it is advisable to use plied strands to prevent the design from puffing up or exposing the base fabric, which may result in an uneven finish.
(2) Pure thick Cotton Embroidery Thread
Thick cotton embroidery thread is made by twisting three yarns together and has a more limited color range. It is generally used as a single strand or, at most, two plied strands. It is suitable for embroidery on linen or velvet fabrics.
Silk Thread
Silk thread is a unique embroidery material primarily produced in southern China. It has a bright luster and a soft texture, with better strength and elasticity than cotton thread. However, it is more expensive, and polyester filament thread can serve as a substitute.
Silk thread is ideal for embroidery on soft satin, silk, and other delicate fabrics. It can also be used for double-sided embroidery on sheer organza. It produces excellent results when depicting the glossy fur or feathers of animals.
Polyester Thread
Polyester embroidery thread is made by twisting two polyester filaments into a single strand, which is then dyed under high temperature and pressure.
Its characteristics are highly distinctive:
- High strength
- Excellent spool formation
- Uniform product quality
- Superior color fastness
- Strong abrasion resistance
- Low breakage rate
- Minimal thread consumption
Rayon Thread
Rayon embroidery thread has very similar properties to polyester embroidery thread. Its main advantages are a wider range of colors and higher stability—even when stretched by the embroidery machine, it does not shrink noticeably.
Additionally, most embroidery top threads are two-ply, though occasionally a stronger three-ply thread is used. It is also essential to choose a "Z-twist" thread that matches the rotation direction of the embroidery hook, as shown in the diagrams below:
To test the twist direction:
- Hold the thread with your right hand and twist it in the direction of the arrow.
- If the thread loosens, it is the correct “Z-twist” for embroidery.
- If it tightens, it is an unusable “S-twist”.
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Choosing the Right Embroidery Thread
The selection of embroidery thread generally depends on the fabric and product requirements. Common thread specifications include “75D, 108D, and 120D”
(D stands for“ Denier”, a unit measuring fiber fineness, representing the weight in grams of a 9,000-meter-long strand. A higher D value indicates a thicker thread.)
- Lightweight fabrics like silk typically use 75D thread for fine, dense stitching with vibrant colors.
- Washable fabrics like denim often require 108D polyester thread, which retains color well and remains durable after washing.
- Thicker fabrics or special applications”may use 120D thread to achieve the desired embroidery effect.
For the bobbin thread, cost-effective cotton or polyester-cotton blends are commonly used, maintaining softness while reducing production costs.
The Impact of the Right Thread
A well-chosen embroidery thread does more than just create a smooth, beautiful, and refined finish—it evokes an instant emotional connection, making the design irresistibly appealing.
Differences define details, and details elevate quality. Though thread is just one element in embroidery, it is a crucial factor in showcasing creativity and craftsmanship.
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